Wednesday 19 September 2012
Ice Cream and Packing...,,,
Yesterday we spent another perfect day in Paris, this time Le Marais - ending our adventure with the family favourite - Amorino (icecream)!
Today, we are packing to leave Paris this afternoon, and London for Melbourne this evening!
All of a sudden it feels like the last month had flown but has been a wonderful holiday and celebration ! We hoped you enjoyed our travels and we look forward to be home soon ! Love M & W xxxx
Monday 17 September 2012
One day in the Somme...
Today we woke in our attic alongside Notre Dame even before her bells began to ring out across the city.
We walked in the morning cold to our Metro station; and the streets were quiet, no masses of tourists, we were almost alone. Cafés were beginning to set up; the overwhelming smell in the air - fresh pastries!
We boarded our TGV at the gare du Nord, settled into our seats - Paris to Arras, 50 minutes at speeds that topped 305kph... I wanted to visit the memorial in the cemetery at Noreuil for my great-uncle who had died in battle in WWI in 1917.
Now, when planning this day I was thinking in Australian terms... Arras - Noreuil - Villers-Bretonneux (perhaps) - Arras, well that will take a full day...
So, we arrived in Arras at 0842 and were booked on the 2017 return to Paris. That would give us almost 12 hours in northern France. What I totally overestimated were the distances involved... We could have driven from Arras to Noreuil, Villers-Bretonneux, stopped for a bite to eat, back to Arras and still been on the 1200 TGV back to Paris!
I almost didn't want to go to Villers-Bretonneux; I have become extraordinarily conscious over the last decade of the militarisation and "celebration" of the events of last century ("thank you" Mr Howard). I worry about the new generations that wrap themselves in, or paint their faces with, images of the Australian flag while sitting on the beach at Gallipoli, or attending a local Anzac Day service. This should not be about "celebration", it should be a quiet, very sober commemoration (for a slightly controversial article, see http://www.theage.com.au/opinion/society-and-culture/letting-go-of-anzac-20100402-rif5.html).
So, with many "spare" hours - what to do? Well, we have a car, we're Australian - let's drive...
So... Arras - Noreuil - Villers-Bretonneux - Amiens - Saint Denys - Arras; every kilometre or two, another village, almost every village (without exaggeration) a war cemetery... 270 km, god knows how many cemeteries.
What I totally underestimated was the scale of the devastation... the front must have rolled backwards and forwards across an unfathomable expanse of land; the oldest dated town building we saw was from 1921...
Now I can begin, just begin, to understand the legacy of this conflict... these young men were the victims of a system, a machine, that we must never let loose again. By comparison, WWII was a "just" war. WWI was a waste; not only a waste, but almost a certain precursor to the misery of WWII. These wounds and divisions are still so much alive in this part of the world - more than we can imagine... have a look at http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/sep/16/bernhard-schlink-germany-burden-euro-crisis - this is such a sad article, the events of this enormous battlefield and those Edwardian imperialist bastards that sent us to war are even today affecting the lives of young children in Europe and beyond...
Somehow, the huge, beautiful, 21st century (and still controversial - a least in Australia) wind turbines that dot the landscape, almost as frequently as the graveyards, deliver a grace and poignancy to the landscape that it seems, very much, to deserve.
What a day, not what I expected.
(...thank you M for your wonderful driving! xxx)
We walked in the morning cold to our Metro station; and the streets were quiet, no masses of tourists, we were almost alone. Cafés were beginning to set up; the overwhelming smell in the air - fresh pastries!
We boarded our TGV at the gare du Nord, settled into our seats - Paris to Arras, 50 minutes at speeds that topped 305kph... I wanted to visit the memorial in the cemetery at Noreuil for my great-uncle who had died in battle in WWI in 1917.
Now, when planning this day I was thinking in Australian terms... Arras - Noreuil - Villers-Bretonneux (perhaps) - Arras, well that will take a full day...
So, we arrived in Arras at 0842 and were booked on the 2017 return to Paris. That would give us almost 12 hours in northern France. What I totally overestimated were the distances involved... We could have driven from Arras to Noreuil, Villers-Bretonneux, stopped for a bite to eat, back to Arras and still been on the 1200 TGV back to Paris!
I almost didn't want to go to Villers-Bretonneux; I have become extraordinarily conscious over the last decade of the militarisation and "celebration" of the events of last century ("thank you" Mr Howard). I worry about the new generations that wrap themselves in, or paint their faces with, images of the Australian flag while sitting on the beach at Gallipoli, or attending a local Anzac Day service. This should not be about "celebration", it should be a quiet, very sober commemoration (for a slightly controversial article, see http://www.theage.com.au/opinion/society-and-culture/letting-go-of-anzac-20100402-rif5.html).
So, with many "spare" hours - what to do? Well, we have a car, we're Australian - let's drive...
So... Arras - Noreuil - Villers-Bretonneux - Amiens - Saint Denys - Arras; every kilometre or two, another village, almost every village (without exaggeration) a war cemetery... 270 km, god knows how many cemeteries.
What I totally underestimated was the scale of the devastation... the front must have rolled backwards and forwards across an unfathomable expanse of land; the oldest dated town building we saw was from 1921...
Now I can begin, just begin, to understand the legacy of this conflict... these young men were the victims of a system, a machine, that we must never let loose again. By comparison, WWII was a "just" war. WWI was a waste; not only a waste, but almost a certain precursor to the misery of WWII. These wounds and divisions are still so much alive in this part of the world - more than we can imagine... have a look at http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/sep/16/bernhard-schlink-germany-burden-euro-crisis - this is such a sad article, the events of this enormous battlefield and those Edwardian imperialist bastards that sent us to war are even today affecting the lives of young children in Europe and beyond...
Somehow, the huge, beautiful, 21st century (and still controversial - a least in Australia) wind turbines that dot the landscape, almost as frequently as the graveyards, deliver a grace and poignancy to the landscape that it seems, very much, to deserve.
What a day, not what I expected.
(...thank you M for your wonderful driving! xxx)
Sunday 16 September 2012
Mr & Mrs Gargoyle
After arriving in Paris, effortlessly thanks to Eurostar, Wayne navigated us to our little apartment - we anticipated stairs, and a loft bed and we were not disappointed. We were however disappointed that we weren't a bit fitter and younger, therefore managing the physical challenge component of our visit with less effort ! That aside we were rewarded with the most wonderful view of Notre Dame, it's so close that I feel we may have found our calling as gargoyles ! In fact as a write this the bells are chiming - divine.
We had a lovely lunch of entrecôte and then set off on foot to reacquaint ourselves with this beautiful city. We walked along the Seine and took a river cruise, arriving at the Eiffel Tower just as the lights on the tower came on, then back up the river around the Il de la Cite and back to Pont Neuf. We wandered back, climbed the stairs and bed! That's after we rearranged the apartment and put our mattress on the floor, neither of us could face the 8 ft climb into the loft - pathetic, but necessary.
This morning, we set off on foot, with no plan, and after we passed an amazing Fromager, conveniently next to the boulangerie, we thought 'picnic in the Jardins du Luxembourg' so armed with cheese & bread we set off for the gardens. After lunch we headed for the Musee d'Orsay and enjoyed the collections of Monet, Cezanne, Renoir and Degas, to name a few.
After our visit to the museum, we set off to Saint Germain, to the creperie that makes my most favourite crepe (discovered last year with Maree) Spinach, Goats Cheese and Honey, amazing! I'm delighted to say Wayne too also found a crepe that he enjoyed !
Tomorrow we are off to Arras by TGV, then by car to Norreuil to visit a WWI war cemetery, where Wayne's great uncle is buried.
Love M & W
Saturday 15 September 2012
Il de cite and 6 flights of stairs
Its a beautiful morning in London and we are sitting in the train bound for Paris, I am still carrying my cakes (I think I'm far more interested in looking at them than eating them) but they will soon have to make way for a visit to Laduree for macarons!
We have only 1 large (very large) suitcase that we will have to drag up the 6 flights of stairs to the apartment ! We are working on a strategy , one that involves a David jones carry bag and several marks & spencer bags - watch this space for an update on our progress! The upside is that the promised view of notre dame from our window should be ample reward for the physical endurance !
Friday 14 September 2012
Downton Abbey and the Guildhall of London
Back on terra firma, off the ship and in our hire car London bound ! Realising we would arrive too early for check-in, Wayne thought Portsmouth, I suggested Highclere Castle (Downton Abbey) and not only was it only 45 minutes away, it was the last open day for the season !!
It was a truly lovely castle, exactly as it is portrayed in the TV series! We had a lovely wander through the gardens and also through the house, unfortunately behind a bus load of pensioners, but we were well trained in queuing behind the aged and infirm after our voyage with Cunard !
Off to London, returned the car and then to the pub for beer and dinner - we had a lovely day. Unfortunately as we were preparing for bed, Wayne's school friend phoned from the restaurant, wondering when we were arriving for dinner? Oops we thought it was the following evening ...... Awkward and disappointing !
Today was a truly great day, Wayne had his Freedom of the City of London ceremony, followed by a tour of Guildhall. It was a lovely service, full of all the pomp and ceremony as only the poms know how! To celebrate we headed to Notting Hill to The Ledbury, a lovely 2 Michelin star restaurant, whose head chef learnt his trade at Scratchleys in Newcastle no less! Off we shuffled, next stop Ottelenghi's - (Yotam Ottelenghi, Israel born restauranteur and chef, Notting Hill, the first Ottolenghi, sells mainly food and pastries to take-out. Many Notting-hillbillies are now hooked on the legendary flourless chocolate tea-cakes and can’t do without their fix of broccoli that they take home with them on the way back from work.) now we too are carrying a box of cakes !
Bit of shopping in Oxford Street and then to the hotel, some frantic packing and of to St Pancras to cloak 3 of our 4 bags - we are only taking one to Paris, the rest can stay till in London till we return !!
Thursday 13 September 2012
Southampton Bound
The last few days have flown by, since Corfu we have had 2 days at sea, a day in Cadiz, Spain then another 2 days at sea. Very relaxing, I have again shown my prowess (luck) at Bingo and have made a personal commitment to never play on land, lest I should become addicted !!
Cadiz was a beautiful city, the Spanish are extremely proud of their cities and this one was no exception, beautiful beaches, parks, footpaths and roads. We did notice some beautiful derelict art deco buildings, that we assume since funding is scarce they have been netted off to preserve them in the hope of one day restoring them. The 'siesta' concept is hard to believe, come 1pm everything shuts till 5.30 ! Not sure how they achieve anything, but working for a Spanish company may have it's merits !!
We have started the arduous task of packing, we dock in Southampton tomorrow morning. The cruise has been amazing, restful and we are feeling very pampered, I'm sure our liver's are feeling pampered too !
To that end I must finish this, as we are off to a Scottish Single Malt whiskey tasting - perfect afternoon pastime ! Wayne will meet me there, he is off meeting the Captain, I preferred the 'cup of tea and a cupcake option !
After docking tomorrow we head back to London for a couple of days!
Happy Birthday Bestie xxx
Saturday 8 September 2012
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